So … if you shoot film you must have read how it says “load this in dim lighting” or “don’t load this in bright sunlight”.
Why, at first i wondered - does light get through the felt bit where film comes out. Now i know.
Film is a plastic-ish stuff, and light can flow into the edge of the film and along inside the film … somewhere i read it called “light pipe effect” - like the way light travels in fibre optics. Also there is a backing on film that reduces this. I used a film that didn’t have this and it was really noticable how much light leaked via the film itself piping it from outside the can through its plastic thin layers to inside the canister.
—— About film development —- TO PREWASH OR NOT TO PREWASH
You will see at some point mention of “pre-wash” or “pre-soak” for your films. All the reasons are varied and some conflict.
Someone said “soak it first so that the film developer will penetrate right away because the film is already wet”.
Then somewhere else i read “if you presoak you have to develop it a bit longer because the water in the film needs to be flushed out and replaced with the developer”.
Others say “some presoak to remove the colours that leach out - like pink or yellow” and that it doesn’t reduce film quality.
Others advice not to presoak or wash but just to heat the tank by warming it in water. I have to say, if you do this you may get more intense resulting colours in my experience.
Some of my best results were with pre-soaking, but my most exciting weird photos are often not prewashed.
Experts are more likely to tell you what will happen, not “you have to do it like this”. There are many film types.
—— ECN2 - motion picture film ——
This has a rem-jet backing that is washed off by professional cinema film development. You can buy Cinestill film where they pre-removed the remjet.
There are ways to just filter out the remjet and peel it off or squeegy it off. So you can develop colour motion picture film with C41 … its doable. There is a whole flickr group doing this and discussing …
Again they do it all kinds of ways but remember this is the “fourth kind” of film for photography.
1. B&W - fun and somewhat easy to develop but recipes are many and varied which is half the fun.
2. Colour C41 - can be home developed, just need to learn how to get the chemicals to a set temperature. In reality - you can use lower and higher temperatures so just give it a go and be fearless.
3. Slide film - under-expose by .5 to 1 stop, develop it C41 (or buy E6 and make real positive slides). Rollei Crossbird is this but labelled as C41 so a lab will process.
4. Motion picture film - ECN2 from Kodak (or Fuji) - can be a very cool way to get high ISO or high grain (slow) for cheap if you “bulk load” from big reels of it and figure out how to remove the remjet in the development process. You can clean your chemicals with a filter to remove residue. I have only done with Cinestill pre remjet removed product
5. Slide Dup or Film Reel Dup films - very slow like 3-12 ISO (yes really) which is totally usable for handheld cam. Just have to be into slow shutter if trying indoor. This type you will only find second hand for the most part though i saw some for sale at one film supplier in US.
There isn’t just cross processing, there is bleach bypass … and other tricks. There is a lot of room for creative interpretation that is unavailable to digital shooters other than with cheesy photoshop plugins.
Film is like Jimi Hendrix with a tube stack, Digital is like digital sample music - both are great. We need both. Film can be more detailed, Digital makes some things more accessible and some things less so - it isn’t cheaper than buying film and film cameras mostly.
If you know more please reply, other types, tricks what you do
I really appreciate when people enjoy them thus, thanks to you!